Hair color - The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. These will not permanently change the hair color until

The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. These will not permanently change the hair color until they are part of an oxidation chemical reaction.

The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. lt is the catalyst or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently alter the hair's color.

The strength of the developer - is determined by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions.

10 Volume - Color deposit with only slight lightening.

20 Volume - Maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening

30 Volume - . Strong lightening action with less color deposit.

Bleaching Boosters - can be added to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions

. Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights, cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly.

This is the key to haircolor

The "color wheel"

It may sound a bit odd but your hair is a mixture of 3 colors; red yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel" a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This means if your hair is a orange color - green will make it a brown color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out.

One of the most important elements of haircoloring is determining the hairs' "underlying pigmet." When you chose a color in a swatch book, your hair may not come out that color because of the underlying pigment in your hair.

Underlying color + Artifcial color = Final result
I will explain more about that later.


First things first...

Tone: refers to whether a color is warm or cool. The warm colors(highlighting) are red, orange and yellow. The cool(ash) colors are blue, green, and violet.

Level: indicates the degree of lightnessor dakness of a color. Every color can be made either lighter or darker, thus changing the level, by the addition of white or black. Hair colors, both natural and color-treated , are classified by level from 1 to 10. 1 indicates black, and 10 indicates the lightest blonde.

Saturation: refers to the degree of concentration or amount of pigment in the color.


Hair Pigment
A pigment called melanin is responsible for hair color. There are 2 types of melanin found in the hair. Eumelanin, is the most common type, it gives the hair shades from brown to black. Phaeomelanin, gives the hair yellowish-blond tones and ginger and red colors. Total absence of pigment produces white (grey) hair.

Levels of Hair Color
1=Black
2=Very Dark Brown
3=Dark Brown
4=Brown
5=Medium Brown
6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blonde

THE CORTEX
About 80% of the hair consists of elongated cells (corticle cells) of a fibroid structure (macro-fibrils, micro fibrils). The cortex determines the THICKNESS, ELASTICITY and STRENGTH of the hair. It is also responsible for housing all of the hairs' natural COLOR PIGMENTS.

COLOR PIGMENTS found in the cortical layer are in the form of minute melanin granules. These granulized color pigments are stored in tiny sacks called ALVEOLUS (ALVEOLI). In healthy hair, light reflected from the cuticle surface produces a soft sheen This sheen is referred to as "the transparency of a hair color." At the same time, the pigments gleam through the cuticle. This is what makes up the unmistakable shades of color in the hair. The cortex can be damages by:

1. TOO STRONG DEVELOPER (OXIDIZERS)

2. BRUSHING AND DRYING

3. PERMS AND NON-SUITABLE SHAMPOOS

This means that the haircolor does not last as long and that the hair becomes brittle, dry, dull and not easy to comb.

FINE HAIR

Fine hair can be damaged easily as compared to thicker or coarser hair. Penetration of chemicals and products occurs faster on fine hair due to the fact that fine hair has less cuticle layers, and sometimes the layers themselves are thinner. The Haircolorist needs to keep this in mind when working with fine textured hair.

COARSE HAIR
Coarse hair is larger in diameter. Coarse hair will have more cuticle layers, and sometimes the layers themselves can be thicker. This type of hair is sometimes more resistant to haircolor and decolorization products.

HOW AMMONIA. DEVELOPERS AND HEAT AFFECT THE HAIR STRUCTURE

1. AMMONIA
Ammonia is used in permanent (oxidative) haircolor. When the permanent haircolor and the developers come together, the action of ammonia begins.
Like all alkaline, the ammonia has the tendency to separate the cuticle and allows the permanent haircolor to penetrate the cortex of the hair. The ammonia has an effect on the sulfur bonds of the hair. If the ammonia is too harsh, the hair will lose more of the sulfur bonds than necessary. It will cause the hair to harden, lose weight and diameter.

2. DEVELOPERS
The higher the volume of the developer, the greater the amount of sulfur is removed from the hair structure. This is one of the reasons why the limitations of the developers be maintained at 30 volume or less for the majority of haircoloring. When we lighten natural hair, the oxidation of the melanin will give a reduction of the natural pigments. Decoloration will have an effect on the natural pigments. They will act especially on the granular pigments and will act progressively as the action of the decoloration takes place. The granular pigments will transform into diffused pigments which explains the apparitions of the reflect more or less intense as the decoloration processes.

3. HEAT
High heat and the length of time high heat is used on the hair will also reduce the structure of the hair. The hair will lose its elasticity. Damage to the cuticle of the hair will make it more breakable. Steam will form inside the hair shaft which in turn will burst hair by breaking it. This is why we need to limit the amount of heat as well as the length of time you dry the hair.


The Mordancage Technique

(For grey hair which is very resistant or 80%-100% grey)
(This technique was provided by Perma of Paris® Hair Color)

1) Apply 20 vol. or 30 vol. straight on the hair.

2) Place client under a hot dryer for 5-7 minutes.

3) Rinse out and towel blot any excess peroxide.

4) Proceed with color application and processing.

This technique allows the hair to be more receptive to accepting color by softening the cuticle layers. It is NOT designed to lighten the hair. If left on for 10 minutes or longer the hair will begin to lighten.

DO NOT USE THIS TECHNIQUE:

- For hair which is natural at the roots but lightened by the sun on the lengths and points. This is an indication that the hair is not resistant.

- On very short or fine hair. On this type of hair, color can be applied directly to the hair without preliminary preparation.

Get more information by visiting

http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/4266/color.html

Hair Perm Techniques - Perms are back!!! Permanent waves do not necessarily have give you a tight curl. They can add body and texture to hair. Most

Perming Techniques (compliments of L'anza® Research)
http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/4266/perm.html

Perms are back!!! Permanent waves do not necessarily have give you a tight curl. They can add body and texture to hair. Most "perms" given today are "waves". A body wave is set on a larger rod and gives your hair volume. Pativa® now offers a new technology that is thio-free, neutralizer free, damage free. It last as long or longer than a conventional "perm".

Advice to give your stylist on ALKALINE PERMS ONLY:
1. Shampoo with Paul Mitchell® Shampoo 3 - It is a clarifying shampoo and will remove all minerals, metals, medications, and debris, internally from the hair.

2. Pre-Wrap with Paul Mitchell® The Detangler. A small amount.

3. In between processing and neutralizing ...Use Paul Mitchell® Wheat Bonding Solution® ( This is neat stuff folks)

4. After neutralizing... but before rinsing...apply The Detangler (Paul Mitchell®) leave on 30 seconds and rinse.

5. Shampoo with Paul Mitchell® Shampoo 1 or for Very dry hair - Paul Mitchell® Moisture and Shine®


Perming Techniques (compliments of L'anza® Research)
The first thing necessary for a successful permanent wave is good hair.
Procedures
A. ANALYSIS OF CLIENT'S HAIR - Determine the condition of the client's hair. - Determine whether an Alkaline or Acid Wave should be used. - Explain hair's condition and perm selection to client.

ALKALINE WAVE: The best choice for resistant hair, resistant grey hair, Asian hair, hair with low elasticity, and hard to perm fine hair as well as normal, healthy hair.

ACID WAVE: These are milder than alkaline perms and work at a lower pH to reduce swelling of the hair during the perm process thus-reducing the chance of damage to fragile and color treated hair. A good choice for healthy hair with good elasticity, tinted hair, damaged hair, highlighted hair, or fragile hair.

B. HAIR PREPARATION: THE ULTIMATE TREATMENT -Shampoo with L’anza® Curls & Color Purifying Shampoo to remove any build-up that may exist. Repeat if build-up is still present. -Spray hair with L’anza® Curls & Color Keratin Booster and leave on hair. -Apply L’anza® Curls & Color Reconstructor. Leave on hair 3-5 minutes and rinse. -Recheck hair's condition. If there's any question about the hair's ability to take a perm, do a test curl at this point.

C. ROD SELECTION Avoid use of spiral and concave rods when perming. Spiral wrapped hair creates a looser curl than a croquinole wrap. Concave rods make it impossible to wrap the hair without peaking the ends (which will produce a tight curl on the ends and a loose curl at the scalp).

For the most natural wave pattern, a straight or cylindrical type rod should be used. A straight or cylindrical rod can be wrapped with the hair strands the same width from the scalp to the ends. This allows the wrap to be executed in a true croquinole technique and helps avoid all spiraling of the hair. It also prevents bunching of the hair which distorts the wave pattern.

D. OFF-BASE ROD PLACEMENT Off-base rod placement is the most effective way to perm. Hair wrapped on-base often ends-up with rod marks, breakage and incongruent wave patterns.
To off-base wrap, a section is combed and held at a 45 degree angle off the head form. When wound, it will tend to sit in front of its own base (The trick is to make sure no portion of the rod is sitting on its own base). The pressure from the rods above will insure that hair is curled very close to the scalp. It also guarantees that congruent wave patterns are formed and no rod marks are created. By running the tail of a comb under the lower edge of the last rod wrapped in a section, the correct size section is easily made.

E. THE PROPER USE OF END PAPERS Your off-base wrap should begin by sandwiching the hair between two end papers. This technique allows the hair to be held at the same width from scalp to ends.

End papers may also be inserted as the hair is wrapped to the scalp. This is called cushion wrapping. Cushion wrapping is a great method to protect fragile hair. It keeps hair from crossing into itself as it is wrapped. It allows hair to swell and enables the solution to penetrate quickly to the ends of the hair.

F. PROCESSING AND REDUCING The action of a perm comes from changing cystine bond to cysteine, which is the effect of reducing the cystine bond. This process allows the polypeptide chains to slip along side of each other to conform to the circle (curl) produced when the hair is wrapped around the rod.

G. TYPES OF PERMS The most common reducing agents are: . Ammonium Thioglycolate (alkaline wave) pH 9.0-10. . Glycerylmonothiogrlycolate (acid wave) pH 6.5-8.2. . Ammonium Thioglycolate and Hydrogen Peroxide (exothermic wave) pH 8.4-9.0.

TIP: When perming tinted, highlighted or fragile hair add 1/4-oz. of L’anza® Curls & Color Keratin Booster into 4-ozs. of reducing solution This will strengthen the hair and the curl formation while you perm.

H. REDUCTION OF THE CYSTINE BOND
AMMONIUM THIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: Two hydrogen atoms are released by two thiodiglycolate molecules which combine with the sulfur atoms that form the cystine bond—thus creating cysteine.

AMMONIUM DITHIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: The formation of cysteine and the changing of the two thioglycolate molecules into dithiodiglycolate now takes place. At this point, the dithiodiglycolate will readily accept the return of the hydrogen it released. But, if there is an excess of thiodiglycolate present the cystine bond will remain broken and allow the polypeptide chains to slip along side one another in response to the pressure placed on them by wrapping them around a perm rod.

1. STOPPING THE REDUCING PROCESS There must be an excess amount of thiodiglycolate on the hair for it to process. Therefore, all that is needed to stop the reducing action is to rinse the rods with water. With an acid wave it is very important to rinse well as the solution is not compatible with the neutralizer. If the neutralizer is applied on top of the lotion the rods will become hot.

J. NEUTRALIZING (Oxidizing) Neutralizing solution contains the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate. The oxidizing agent releases oxygen in the hair. This combines with the hydrogen of the cysteine to form water, as well as a new cystine bond.
TIP: Place a 1/4-oz. of L’anza® Curls & Color Keratin Booster into your neutralizer. This will provide additional strength to the hair and aid in the reformation of the cystine bonds.

K. OXIDATION PROCESS
ATMOSPHERIC OXIDATION: Allowing the oxygen in the atmosphere to neutralize the perm and reform the cystine bonds is important. This process reforms the cystine more slowly and completely because the hair is allowed to shrink and the cystine bonds are brought back together naturally. It also eliminates the fear of over oxidation. To be effective, hair must dry naturally and slowly on the rods for 24 hours. (Not under the dryer or out in the sun).

L. LOCKING-IN RESULTS Once Neutralizer (oxidizer) is rinsed from hair, complete steps 4 and 5 of the Ultimate Treatment. Spray Curls & Color Chemical Balancer on to the hair (Ultimate Treatment Step 4). This may be done on or off the rods. Chemical Balancer will slam the cuticle layer shut to lock-in the perm and help eliminate perm odors. Leave on hair for 3-5 minutes and rinse. Towel blot hair and apply a pearl-size amount of Curls & Color Leave-In Protector to hair (Step 5). Leave-In Protector will detangle, condition and protect hair from heat-styling, sun exposure and other environmental damage.

Contents for this post were taken from

http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/4266/perm.html